Bell & Ross target Top Gun

July 21st, 2010 by chris No comments »

The RADAR looks like it belongs in Top Gun. This is a Bell & Ross watch that’s so unconventional, one marvels that it could even be engineered. Yet here it is, a targeting reticule for your very own wrist.

The design and engineering difficulties required to create this piece must have been astonishing. After all, the watch’s appearance goes against nearly every bit of inherited wisdom regarding watches. For example, the face is not circular but square. Yet within this square are three concentric circles, each identifying a particular unit of time: hours, minutes, and seconds.

Thus, there are no watch hands, no individual dials, and no numbers even. Instead, there are just those three differently coloured line segments which communicate the time to the wearer. The discs used were far heavier than normal watch hands, creating a host of additional problems, so the engineering team had to develop a material that was much lighter–kind of like the composite materials used in some of today’s most advanced defence aircraft. With the Bell & Ross RADAR, the military aircraft feel is completed by a watch strap made out of black rubber, exactly the same shade as the rest of the watch itself.

Every watch company seems to strive to announce that it’s the first ever to do such and such. For this piece, it appears that Bell & Ross truly have created the first watch ever modelled after an airplane’s cockpit. Although it may not be the easiest timekeeping device to interpret, you’ll probably be the only one you know who owns one. It’ll turn heads, that’s for sure.

We always enjoy these innovative pieces, those watches that take the everyday watch and attempt to turn those old concepts on their head. It’s truly amazing what can be accomplished when the design team is freed from assumptions and set loose.

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Mondaine’s Asian/Swiss Balance

July 21st, 2010 by chris No comments »

Mondaine, though not a maker of luxury timepieces, is still a part of the Swiss horological industry. Based in Biberist, Switzerland, it’s not particularly old either. But it has had to contend with the economic problems of the last couple of years. Clearly, demand fell off a cliff for expensive watches during the height of the recession. But Mondaine caters to a different clientele, and has a degree of manufacturing flexibility which few other Swiss watchmakers do.

You see, most of Mondaine’s pieces are relatively inexpensive, and since Far East manufacturing is more than capable of producing these pieces at a similar level of quality for a lower cost, production was shipped out there. Yet the Swiss company didn’t abandon debt-ridden, stagnant Europe for Asia–quite the contrary, actually.

While everyone else was weathering the storm, Mondaine stepped up and built up its European facilities. The Bernheim brothers sunk millions of francs into building a new production and distribution facility, with four times the area of the old one. This represented a considerable fixed cost, but expanding their foothold in Switzerland was probably key to the brand’s image. After all, if you’re looking for a cheap watch from Asia, there are plenty of other companies who offer that–probably for less, even.

There’s a tremendous amount of prestige that comes with being a Swiss watchmaker. That’s a selling point for every watch that Mondaine markets. For those that can’t afford a more expensive brand, Mondaine watches offers those individuals the bragging rights of a Swiss watch without the price tag.

Finally, the company added jobs to the local economy. Not only did it manage to preserve the 110 jobs or so that already existed, but they added sixty more. With Europe in crisis, Mondaine strengthened its existing ties and established new ones. Expect the company to continue to thrive in the near term.

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Black Dice – LEDs Paving the Way

July 14th, 2010 by chris No comments »

Black Dice’s interesting “Guru” watch looks like something out of the future. It applies a lighting source–LEDs–that few manufacturers have caught on to as of yet. Still an emerging technology, it holds great promise for the industry.

LEDs come with a number of benefits–aesthetic and practical–that few people realize exist. First, LEDs can last upward of 50,000-100,000 hours. The smaller they are and the better the heat dissipation, the longer they burn. Thus, they’ll probably outlast the Black Dice Watch itself. Second, the light from LEDs is tuneable. In other words, you can adjust the intensity of the light. With an ambient light sensor on the watch itself, and a few integrated microelectronics, the LEDs will instantly adjust to an appropriate output setting for maximum visibility. Additionally, LEDs work very well in a system that hooks together the light source, a capacitor, and a solar cell. The incorporation of a solar panel on the watch dial, with LEDs underneath and a small battery would yield an energy system that would be self-sustaining.

LEDs also come with the advantage of providing lights of various colours. Blue, green, red, yellow, orange, purple, and white are all within the realm of possibilities. The Guru takes advantage of this, not limiting itself to standard white illumination. This opens up an entirely new plethora of design possibilities. Moreover, OLEDs are currently being developed that may provide extremely thing luminous panels. Already utilized in cell phones, they could very well make their way into the watch industry. Imagine even thinner watches that dim according to conditions, and switch from blue luminescence to green instantly. What’s clear is that in the very near future designers will have nearly limitless possibilities when it comes to the outward appearance of the watch. In the same way that a revolution in general lighting can be expected and anticipated, we may very well see one is the watch industry as well.

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Romain Jerome – A Watch Out of This World

July 14th, 2010 by chris No comments »

I frequently take the opportunity to praise watch manufacturers for their innovative use of materials or their attempts to create entirely unique pieces. But the products offered by Romain Jerome simply take the cake. I’m nearly wordless to describe what they’ve done.

Their historic DNA line provides something that no collector can be without. First I’ll introduce the more conventional one: a watch constructed of metal salvaged from the Titanic. That’s right: the storied, fated, sunken queen of the seas. Apparently, Romain Jerome bought up this precious metal at auction, treated it to halt the rusting process, and put it into their watches. Pieces will likely cost upwards of one hundred thousand dollars, but even at this price, there literally is nothing like it available on the market. Building history into a watch was sheer genius, and the product development guy (or gal) at Romain Jerome who thought this one up ought to get some kind of award.

So this was way back in 2007 or thereabouts. In 2009, thanks to the success of the Titanic line, the company introduced something even more spectacular. Metal from Apollo XI has been built into this latest historic DNA line. Even better, moon dust is sprinkled on the watch face, which itself is built to resemble the lunar surface. Using parts of the vehicle that helped achieve the greatest feat in humanity’s history is one thing, but to actually put moon dust on the piece gives it a tremendous dimension. There are only so many samples available from the moon, and most of this is sealed off in government labs for study. Most of us will never see, up close, a part of an entirely alien world, yet here is the chance to really own your own piece of it. With these two achievements behind it, I can’t even begin to imagine what’s next for Romain Jerome watches or what they will do in the future to top this. Whatever it is, other-worldly won’t do as a descriptor; they’ve already done that.

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Meccaniche Veloci – Innovation in an Old Industry

July 14th, 2010 by chris No comments »

Every once in a while, a luxury watchmaker like Meccaniche Veloci figures out how to use an alternative material in a new way. After all, consumers are familiar with timepieces constructed of gold, silver, and assorted precious and semi-precious stones. Watches constructed of ever rarer or unusual materials oftentimes garner a significant amount of interest, if only because they’re different. The Quattro Valvole by Meccaniche Veloci (translated as “Mechanized Speed”) does just that. Racing and watchmaking have a long storied history together. Oftentimes a lot of attention is paid to the inspiration that European automobile racing has had upon watch design. Famous vehicles may have watches crafted specifically for that model, such as the Bugatti Veyron. But Meccaniche Veloci takes this association one step further. Instead of merely being inspired by race cars, the Quattro Valvole is literally made of the same materials. Prestigious Italian brake manufacturer Brembo manufactures carbon fibre discs that are used directly in racing. After four years of collaboration between these two Italian companies, the first carbon fibre watch has been born. Extremely strong and light, it’s outfitted in Brembo’s attractive colours. Production is, as is standard with these sorts of specialized watches, quite limited. A fixed number of watches can be carved from each ceramic disc, and this restricted supply helps to keep the pieces exclusive. It also serves to drive up the price, although USD $15,500 doesn’t seem an unreasonable price to pay for such a unique watch. It will be curious to see what’s in store for these two brands going forward. The four years of research and development may mean that we can expect more products in the future. The key to predicting what’s in store lies in examining how the current product offering could be improved. A carbon fibre watch is certainly original, but how about a watch utilizing that and metal from old Ferraris?

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Giuliano Mazzuoli – The Greatest Gift

July 10th, 2010 by chris No comments »

Giuliano Mazzuoli WatchesGiuliano Mazzuoli’s recent partnership with Paul Newman is certainly a worthy one. Watch manufacturers team up with charities quite frequently. It’s a way to contribute to a worthy cause while simultaneously improving the image of the brand and the company. But Mazzuoli’s work seems of an even more resolute and magnanimous origin.

Giuliano Mazzuoli was recently honored with the 2009 “Watch of the Year” award for the Contagiri–a piece based upon the pressure gauges found in race cars. His love of racing inspired the piece, and he looked to share it with a fellow enthusiast. That man would turn out to be the famous Paul Newman. Mazzuoli went on to donate not just one Contagiri, but twenty-five of them to Mr. Newman’s very own charity, Hole in the Wall.

Especially enjoyable in this instance is the common passion the two men share for racing. Somehow they manage to find a way to overlap race cars, fine watches, and sick children. Hole in the Wall allows terminally ill children a chance to enjoy the same kinds of summer camps which most healthy kids experience.

Additionally, Mazzuoli’s contribution seems to go far beyond what sometimes could be perceived of as mere superficiality. As stated, many fine watch manufacturers donate commemorative pieces, or have charities of choice. Donating not only feels good, but helps the company as well. With Mazzuoli however, the gift feels even more real. These were his masterpieces, and he gifted Newman with twenty-four more of them than were requested. His actions will add another dimension to the already famous Contagiri. It won’t just be the greatest watch produced in the world during 2009, but will also carry with it the humanitarian aspect. It wasn’t just a watch made to be beautiful, but also designed to accomplish humane, important goals.

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Ball Watches – Into the Blue

July 10th, 2010 by chris No comments »

Ball WatchesA “blue hole” has to be one of the most terrifying things a diver can encounter. As if diving weren’t already dangerous and difficult enough, these bottomless ocean pits offer a chance to really push the limits.

Located all over the world, blue holes aren’t quite bottomless, but they can extend to a depth of several hundred feet. Still, this is enough to give it its characteristic blackness. Light itself is unable to penetrate this far below the surface. The result is easily visible. In tropical, shallow waters such as those around the Bahamas, the sea appears light blue and clear to the diver. A blue hole interrupts this pristine environment; right on the bottom of the ocean, a giant pit yawns–an abyss.

All this doesn’t seem to bother free-diver Guillume Néry the slightest. His combination of two of the world’s most dangerous sports into one of the most inhospitable and dangerous environments speaks volumes to his courage, as well as to the ruggedness of the Ball Watch timepieces that accompany him on his daring feats. What are these two sports, you might ask? Free-diving requires a diver to descend into the deep without the benefit of air tanks. But Néry also incorporates elements of what’s known as base-jumping. Base-jumping is usually done from mountain peaks and ledges. The jumper wears an outfit which allows him to essentially fly.

Néry’s dives are viewable on YouTube, as well as on the Ball Watch Company’s website. Beyond the sheer amount of time the extreme diver’s required to hold his breath for, and the audacity required to plunge into the deepest ocean hole in the world, consider the physical pressure placed upon the diver’s body in such a short period of time. Every 33 feet equals approximately one atmosphere. All this pressure is subject to the watch as well, and it’s with justifiable pride that Ball Watch Company advertises its products on these grounds.

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A Tsovet Invasion?

July 10th, 2010 by chris No comments »

Tsovet WatchesA long time ago, the First Moscow Watch Factory was founded to produce timepieces in the Soviet Communist style. As late as a couple of decades ago, it was producing millions of watches per year. They were simple and unadorned, just as the ideology dictated.

In the post-Cold War era, this attitude lives on in the recently-founded watch company, Tsovet. Its founder, Mr. David Bonaventura, was inspired by these Soviet designs. Additionally, he felt that it filled an important niche in the industry–one between flowery low-end watches and high-end, undifferentiated products. The result is the unpretentious Tsovet.

Perhaps we can delve a little bit deeper into whether or not Mr. Bonaventura has hit upon an interesting prospect. Does today’s watch market really resemble this characterization? The answer is somewhat surprising. Many people are under the impression that the industry is crowded, that there’s very little that can be done to stand out from the crowd. To a certain degree this is true. There are a vast array of manufacturers at every price level. As noted, the bottom is crowded with those who market their products as fashion accessories, while the top is stuffed with many elegant watches that appear quite similar. Frustrated by this reality, Bonaventura set out to change it by creating an “everyman” watch that combined high-quality with little aesthetic enhancement. He found a gap in the market.

Has he hit upon something which other makers were missing? It appears as though this might be the case. Tsovet’s timepieces are all created with the idea of simplicity and purpose in mind. In other words, it’s a watch, nothing more or less, and shouldn’t try to achieve something that is not part of its function. That function is the telling of time. Thus, a watch shouldn’t attempt to accessorize your suit or dress, and it shouldn’t draw attention to itself. Stripped to its most basic form, the Tsovet watch will be an interesting experiment, if only for the novel approach to the industry that it envisions.

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Axcent and Asia

July 9th, 2010 by chris No comments »

Axcent WatchesAxcent has a winning formula established. The company’s still new, but is making great strides toward improving its marketing strategy and establishing itself dominantly in its segment. Axcent of Scandinavia (Sweden) labels its watches “fashion accessories” in order to differentiate its product. Although it targets the relatively low-end of the watch market, the Swedish have a flair for design that gives the watches cool, modern lines and an avant-garde appeal.

Axcent’s success can be measured not only by its sales volume and revenue, but also by its visibility on the big screen. Its products have appeared in a number of recent movies. But perhaps even more important is the growth that the brand has experienced in Asia.

It’s unclear right now to what degree the watch industry has honed in on the future. There’s really a compelling case in the Far East, in the spirit of Axcent’s example. The developing Asian economies hold within them tremendous possibilities. For example, most of the economies have remained underdeveloped for decades. India, China, Vietnam and a host of other nations in the region are currently experiencing high single-digit annual growth.

A number of luxury brands in other sectors have already come to this conclusion. Individuals within these societies save a larger percentage of their incomes than those in other areas of the world. As wealth continues to accumulate, watch for consumer spending to increase. Watches are status symbols in the West. The East, it could be argued, is incorporating aspects of Western economics and culture into their own. Axcent watches appears to comprehend this. They also know that certain elements of Eastern culture can be turned into selling points. These “fashion accessories” work well with Chinese and Japanese fashion. In cultures that tend to value uniformity over individual expression, Axcent’s colourful, attractive pieces make even more of a statement.

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Seiko’s International Push

July 9th, 2010 by chris No comments »

Seiko's Watches

Japanese watch manufacturer Seiko recently announced that its coveted “Ananta” series would be released for international distribution. This is a curious but welcome development, and deserves some further comments.

Seiko itself remains a bit of an outlier in the high-end luxury watch market. That industry really and truly belongs to the Swiss, French, Germans, and Italians. In other words, it’s a European monopoly. Japanese maker Seiko represents the pinnacle of Asian engineering in an industry dominated by Europe. That it’s able to compete and thrive speaks volumes to its commitment to quality.

Maybe that’s what makes the Ananta so attractive and competitive. After all, the Japanese didn’t just mindlessly copy what the Swiss were doing. Instead, they applied techniques that have made them successful in both the electronics and the automobile industry. They applied precision manufacturing to the Ananta, and they incorporated certain cultural elements that serve to set their products apart from those of the Swiss. For example, Seiko claims that the Ananta is based upon Japan’s samurai sword. The lines, the cut—even the processed steel—derive their inspiration from the katana.

The icon is culturally unique, as well as bold and striking. It’s the perfect icon to build a brand around. Additionally, it’s a curious time for the Japanese to make a foray into the international market with one of their best products. The market is hurting; global sales are down across the board. Seiko’s left the Ananta in its own domestic market for some time, and only in 2010 does it decide to export it. Perhaps the recession has given the Japanese the opportunity to claim market share at their expense. When the global economy rebounds, Seiko may find itself in a better overall position than its rivals. Perhaps this is Seiko’s preliminary steps toward building a stronger international clientele.

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